Credits: Luistxo / Wikimedia Commons — CC BY-SA 2.0.
The new Disney+ series, unveiled on January 19, highlights a lesser-known aspect of Cristóbal Balenciaga, founder of the famous fashion house Balenciaga. This production explores his ties to the Nazis during the Occupation, a dark period in French history.
In this series, actor Alberto San Juan plays the role of Balenciaga. A key scene depicts a fictional interview with Prudence Glynn for the Times in August 1971, where he discusses his survival during the war, portraying fashion as craftsmanship serving the elite, regardless of resistance or collaboration.
The series also details the sudden closure of the House of Balenciaga in July 1940 by German authorities, suggesting various reasons such as Balenciaga’s homosexuality or his hats being deemed eccentric by the Nazis.
Historians suggest that Balenciaga may have benefited from ties to Francisco Franco, an ally of Hitler, to continue his activities. Close associates of the Franco regime, like Carmen Polo, were regular clients. Balenciaga designed the wedding dress of Carmen Martínez-Bordiú, Franco’s granddaughter, in 1972. As a side note, the mother of the famed Paco Rabanne reportedly worked for him.
The series also raises the connections of other fashion houses with the Nazis, such as Hugo Boss, founder of Adolf Hitler’s party, and Chanel, whose antisemitic founder Gabrielle Chanel was reportedly recruited by German intelligence services. Balenciaga is portrayed as an enigmatic man, talented but discreet, struggling to keep his homosexuality hidden. He is described as an exceptional couturier, recognized and admired by his peers like Christian Dior and Coco Chanel.
Cristóbal Balenciaga on Disney+ is not universally acclaimed, but the series has the merit of exploring the complex life of the great Spanish couturier, whose house still prospers, without hiding the controversial aspects of his past.