The Paris Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2024, which took place from Wednesday, September 27 to Tuesday, October 3, 2023, was memorable. Between the bold actions of PETA, the misunderstandings of the successful L’Oréal show, and the controversial innovations of Undercover, this Parisian week was rich in emotions. While Bermuda shorts and fishing nets made their comeback, other trends, such as quiet luxury, are confirmed, crisis obliges. Discover, as if you were there, the major trends, but also the stories that made this edition. You are in the right place to savor a week of fashion in the City of Light!
Notable Controversies
Punchy Actions by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals
PETA once again marked Fashion Week with two punchy actions. The first during the Hermès show on September 29. An activist sneaked onto the stage, brandishing a sign “Stop exotic skins”. After being immobilized, a spectator snatched her sign creating a buzz.
Jeremstar also made himself talked about again during the Louis Vuitton show on October 2. Also adorned with a sign, the videographer with 2 million subscribers was on the Champs-Élysées. He wore a tight-fitting suit with snake skin patterns. Bloodied, he wanted to draw attention to the violence done to animals. He will be held and then handcuffed by three police officers shouting: “you are hurting me!”.
These acts were not a first for PETA, having already demonstrated at Burberry, Gucci, and Coach.
Sparkle and Misunderstanding at the Walk Your Worth Show by L’Oréal
The Walk Your Worth show was orchestrated for the sixth time by L’Oréal. It took place on the forecourt of the Eiffel Tower. Inclusive, it celebrated fashion under the colors of emancipation and female solidarity.
It saw the participation of international personalities from the world of entertainment and fashion. Among them, actresses Viola Davis, Eva Longoria, Andie MacDowell, Elle Fanning, and Helen Mirren; as well as singers Yseult and Camila Cabello. And also models Kendall Jenner and Baptiste Giabiconi.
However, the reputation of this rare event could have been tarnished by a misunderstanding. L’Oréal had launched a contest on Facebook inviting five lucky people to attend the show on October 1. Some believed that the event was open to all. Unfortunately, those without an invitation had to settle for watching the show behind a window.
Undercover and the Terrarium Dress
On September 27, Undercover revealed luminous terrarium dresses in a dark parking lot, a creation by Jun Takahashi mixing living plants and butterflies under glass. “Magical” said Vanessa Friedman of the highly respected New York Times.
This innovation, however, raised ethical questions about the use of living beings in fashion.
Notable Trends of this Fashion Week
Return of the Bermuda Shorts
Although Miu-Miu and Courrèges reinterpreted the seventies style by featuring flared pants and shorts, a style that combines casual and elegance when worn with tights, it is indeed the Bermuda shorts that made their big comeback, illuminating the runways of Paris Fashion Week.
This long short, once synonymous with holidays, is now a key element of chic ready-to-wear, revealing its versatility and elegance. Well cut and matched with a jacket, it won over the audience. Dries Van Noten demonstrated the inherent elegance of this garment, while Coperni reinvented it in denim, revealing all the fantasy it can carry.
The diversity of Bermuda shorts was also highlighted by the Y/Project, where it was presented in an extra-large version, exhibiting the originality of the design. At Victoria Beckham, the Parisian revelation of the season, the Bermuda shorts lengthened, flirting with the style of the cropped pants.
Renaissance of the Fishing Net
The fishing net is a stylistic element that continues to appeal to the fashion industry. Kevin Germanier transformed it into a colorful dress, demonstrating its flexibility. Isabel Marant proposed a black tank top for men, affirming the return of this trend. Pierpaolo Piccioli, artistic director of Valentino designed with openwork fabrics short dresses sometimes embroidered with flowers.
Reign of the Giant Bag
The giant bag was seen in Milan and then transported to Paris. The models of Marie Adam-Leenaerdt and Vaillant illustrate the combination of elegance and functionality. More than just an accessory, these huge bags embody the flexibility of current fashion, marking a balance between utility and aesthetics.
Quiet Luxury
The quiet luxury is a trend that favors minimalism and refined elegance. The Paris Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2024 highlighted this through a range of sober and luxurious pieces.
The political and social atmosphere in Europe, marked by recent crises, seems to have reinforced this trend. Ursula von der Leyen, the high-profile President of the European Commission, has even inspired some designers recently.
Miuccia Prada through her collection for Miu Miu, illustrated this trend with a mix of unlikely genres, but always in beauty. Hermès, under the creative direction of Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, highlighted the luxury and fluidity of leather in its Spring / Summer 2024 collection. Major fashion houses such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior also reflected this trend, without however claiming quiet luxury.
Other notable houses and designers
Paris Fashion Week saw Avellano make a notable entrance with singer Bilal Hassani at the Arab World Institute on October 3, 2023. He sported a black latex dress and coat ensemble, strongly asserting his originality.
At the Dior Paris Fashion Week show, Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri continued to explore feminist themes, this time through the mythical and mystical figure of the witch. The collection highlighted dark dresses with a deliberately damaged look and deconstructed shirts.
Saint Laurent, under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello, opted for a streamlined collection, focused on elegant silhouettes with pencil skirts and a palette of beige, black and khaki.
Courrèges offered a mix of modernity and simplicity, with feminine creations oscillating between retro and contemporary. Fluid and poetic designs were also observed at Issey Miyake, Leonard Paris and Zimmerman, each celebrating a sparkling and radiant femininity.
Dance took center stage at Valentino, with a show in collaboration with singer FKA Twigs and a group of dancers, highlighting ultra-openwork dresses and 3D embroidery.
On September 28, Léna Situations Fashion Week did not go unnoticed. The famous influencer made a remarkable entrance at the Paco Rabanne show. She caught attention in a bold metallic top made of silver leaves, worn with a simple loose cut jeans, mastering the art of contrast well.
The Balmain show was just as anticipated at Fashion Week, especially after the theft of their collection ten days before. Olivier Rousteing, the artistic director, rose to the challenge by recreating his stolen collection in record time. He was inspired by the archives of the 1940s / 1950s of Pierre Balmain using the rose as a central motif. Success hailed by personalities present such as Selena Gomez, Cher, Léna Situation, Fashion Week obliges! Kim Cattrall from Sex and the City even told Rousteing she wanted the whole collection!
Anna Wintour Fashion Week
Victoria Beckham Paris Fashion Week: the consecration
Victoria Beckham shone at this Fashion Week. Her family, with the exception of her son Romeo, as well as various celebrities, were present. David Beckham, her husband, expressed his pride on social networks.
Anna Wintour, Eva Longoria, Kim Kardashian and her mother Kris Jenner were spotted in the front row.
Victoria is not new to the world of fashion. She started as a model and collaborated with prestigious brands. Her own brand, launched in 2008, has had its ups and downs. She overcame financial difficulties and criticism. Recognition by the industry has been gradual. The presence of her brand at Paris Fashion Week marks a milestone in her career as a recognized fashion designer.
Icy atmosphere between Anna Wintour and Kim Kardashian: a silence that creates buzz
The atmosphere of this show was marked by an icy cold between Anna Wintour and Kim Kardashian. Sitting next to each other, a tension emanated, perhaps due to Kim’s late arrival, thus delaying the start of the show. The great Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue, did not hide her discontent.
Anna’s coldness towards Kim sparked many reactions on the web and in the media. The body language of the editor-in-chief has been much commented on, some perceiving a certain distance between the two women. Yet, despite this tense atmosphere, brief exchanges took place between them during the show, further amplifying the controversies. Internet users are already wondering if Kim’s invitation to the next Met Gala is certain… Count on Ecostylia to tell you soon.
To conclude
The Paris Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2024 will have marked the spirits, as much by its trends as by its strong and controversial moments. Return of the Bermuda shorts, ethical and ecological debates, consecration of Victoria Beckham… Each event contributed to making this week a memorable spectacle. While some already see the trends of the next season taking shape, others continue to comment on this edition. What is certain is that Paris Fashion Week remains essential in the world of fashion.