In Paris, on November 5, 2025, the opening of the Shein Paris store at BHV Marais sparks controversy: enthusiastic lines inside, protests outside. In the background, France threatens a suspension up to a ban on Shein in France after the discovery of child-like dolls, while Brussels increases pressure on Temu under the European Union’s DSA (Digital Services Act). Between purchasing power and responsibility, a full-scale test.
At BHV, a "world first" under tension
Tight lines, muffled cries, protests at the entrance of BHV Marais. On November 5, 2025, Shein opens its first permanent store in the Parisian department store. On the sixth floor, brand-new shelves attract crowds in search of low prices. Outside, activists and retail employees denounce the ultra fast-fashion model and its social and environmental effects. The day ends with a tense atmosphere: security forces filter, slogans resonate, the controversy grows (see Reuters and AP News).
A scandal of pedopornographic dolls that changes the game
The day before and the day before that, the controversy escalates. The DGCCRF reports to the judiciary the online posting of child-like sex dolls. These are described as "pedopornographic" by several media outlets. The Ministry of Economy warns: if the brand does not comply, France can suspend its access to the national market. In response, Shein announces the ban of "sex dolls" and the suspension of the entire "adult products" category, pending an internal audit of its marketplace (Reuters; AP News). The episode illustrates a structural problem of platforms: the moderation of a gigantic catalog operated by third-party sellers.
Beyond this immediate shock, another issue looms: in July 2025, the DGCCRF fines Shein: €40 million fine for misleading commercial practices related to fake promotions. The company has accepted the fine while claiming to review its methods. The regulator’s message is clear: the protection of online consumers is non-negotiable.
Frédéric Merlin, the bold bet of a CEO under heavy fire
At the heart of the storm, one name: Frédéric Merlin, 34 years old, owner of BHV via the Société des grands magasins (SGM). Criticized for offering a Parisian showcase to Shein, he says he "assumes" his choice while expressing being "disgusted" by the online sale of "indecent" and "abject" objects. He assures having considered breaking the partnership but was "convinced to continue." This happened after the measures taken by the brand on its marketplace (statements reported by Le Point). The economic argument is straightforward: revive foot traffic in a department store battered by inflation, platform competition, and declining margins. But the reputational cost is immediate: brand withdrawals, union criticisms, outraged elected officials, and now an increased regulatory risk.
On the ground, the opening day sums up this tightrope walk: endless queues and loss leader prices that attract, alongside protests and store departures. The short-term bet – creating traffic – clashes with a long-term question: what identity for a historic Parisian department store when the flagship floor bears the colors of an ultra-fast fashion giant?
Magali Berdah, the contested face of the brand
Another face of the sequence: Magali Berdah, a figure of French influence. In the spring, she publicly collaborated with Shein to defend price accessibility and criticize a future "anti-fast fashion" law. The controversy rebounds on air: invited to television debates, she "assumes" her collaboration, sparks clashes and disapproval from editorialists and journalists. For Shein, this choice of embodiment aims to speak to popular and digital audiences; for its opponents, it illustrates an unabashed lobbying amid controversy over illicit content and environmental impact. The fault lines are clear: purchasing power against sobriety, communication against accountability.
Brussels puts Temu under pressure under the DSA
The risk-taking does not concern only Shein. In Brussels, the European Commission opened, on October 31, 2024, a formal procedure against Temu under the European Union’s DSA, following information requests dated June 28 and October 11, 2024. On July 28, 2025, the European executive announced preliminary DSA infringement findings targeting the prevention of illegal products on marketplaces and risk management on the marketplace. Temu is a very large online platform (VLOP) under the DSA: its obligations are reinforced, its failures potentially sanctioned up to 6% of its global turnover (European Commission).
This context weighs on the entire cross-border marketplace ecosystem. The France / EU combination – DGCCRF and DSA – is emerging as a more demanding regulatory framework for e-commerce in the EU: monitoring of third-party sellers, traceability of products, effective moderation, transparency of recommendation systems, evaluation and mitigation of systemic risks.
What the DSA changes (abridged guide)
- Status: "very large platforms" (VLOP/VLOSE) see their obligations reinforced.
- Key obligations: assess risks (illegal products, protection of minors), mitigate, audit annually, open their data to researchers.
- Transparency: publication of reports, access to algorithms for control purposes, informing users when content is removed.
- Sanctions: fines up to 6% of global turnover, penalties and, in case of serious repeated violations, possibility of additional restrictions (European Commission).
How to spot a misleading promotion (practical tips)
- Reference price: a "crossed-out price" must correspond to a price actually practiced recently. Beware of spectacular differences without any trace of this price in the past.
- Duration: permanent promotions or those that "extend" indefinitely are a warning sign.
- Comparison: check the average price of the product from several sellers, including through the brand’s official sites.
- Mandatory information: conditions, fees, and deadlines must be clear. In case of doubt, capture the page and report to the DGCCRF.
A battle of narratives: purchasing power, ethics, and law
Shein’s defenders emphasize the pressure on wallets: inflation, difficult end of the month, the desire to dress without breaking the bank. Opponents point to a hidden cost: overproduction, waste, copycats, pressure on suppliers, traffic capture to the detriment of local businesses, and especially exposure to illicit content and products when the platform’s architecture fails. The day of November 5 acts as a revelator: the commercial celebration and the regulatory warning collide.
BHV: the shock strategy
For Frédéric Merlin, the equation remains delicate. Shein’s contribution promises volumes and a young clientele, likely to rediscover the department store. However, the mistrust of some partner brands complicates the operation. Additionally, the anger of employees adds to this tense situation. Furthermore, the interpellation of elected officials ultimately turns the operation into a full-scale test. The image of BHV – a heritage of central Paris – finds itself in a delicate situation. Indeed, it is caught between the promise of a popular commerce and the demand for a responsible commerce. The future will depend as much on controls as on the invited brand’s ability to keep its commitments on its marketplace.
French framework: injunctions, fines, blocking as a last resort
On the France side, the recent sequence confirms a rearming of tools:
- DGCCRF controls and penal transactions (the €40 million accepted by Shein in July 2025 for misleading practices).
- Reports to the judiciary for illicit content.
- Threats of market access suspension in case of recurrence.
All this is part of a broader agenda, including e-commerce regulation and influencers. Moreover, it integrates the fight against unfair commercial practices as well as the defense of minors and the consumer.
And now?
The store is open, the administrative procedure is ongoing, and public opinion is divided. Shein claims to cooperate with authorities and strengthen its controls. Bercy promises to verify, sanction, and, if necessary, block. Brussels sets the line for all major platforms. In the middle, the consumer wants fair prices, safe products, and reliable information.
New development: the convergence of France–EU on the application of the DSA and national rules may reshuffle the cards. The cost of failures – financial, legal, reputational – is increasing. In Paris, the Shein floor at BHV resembles a laboratory: if it keeps its promises of audit, withdrawals, and moderation, physical commerce may gain a breath of fresh air. Otherwise, it could become the symbol of a bygone age of complacency towards platforms.
Key references (selection):
- European Commission – Formal procedure against Temu and preliminary findings (31/10/2024; 28/07/2025): digital-strategy.ec.europa.eu; preliminary findings.
- DSA – sanctions: application framework.
- DGCCRF (Bercy) – €40 million fine accepted by Shein: official statement (PDF).
- France / Shein – announcements of ban on sex dolls, suspension of "adult products," threat of suspension in France: Reuters; AP News.
- BHV, opening and controversies: international dispatches (Reuters, AP) and reports (Le Monde, France 24).