Credits: Christopher William Adach / Wikimedia Commons — CC BY-SA 2.0.
The man behind the dark glasses and the starched collar is back in the spotlight. Karl Lagerfeld, the iconic creative director of Chanel, will be at the center of a biographical series on Disney+. Titled Becoming Karl Lagerfeld, this six-episode miniseries plunges us into the fascinating and tumultuous life of this fashion genius.
An Extraordinary Path
Karl Lagerfeld still has more to dazzle us with. Born in Hamburg in 1933, Karl Otto Lagerfeldt, his real name, was the son of a Swedish businessman and a Prussian mother. He grew up in a well-to-do family, between the Bissenmoor estate owned by his parents and Hamburg. From a young age he developed a passion for design and fashion. He was fluent in German, English, and French.
In the early 1950s, Karl and his mother left Germany and settled in Paris. He attended Lycée Montaigne, then began his career as a fashion illustrator. In 1954, he won first prize ex aequo with Yves Saint-Laurent in the competition organized by the International Wool Secretariat, run by Woolmark. This victory marked the start of his meteoric career.
His talent did not go unnoticed and he was quickly hired by Pierre Balmain. He worked as the couturier’s personal assistant from 1955 to 1962, before becoming artistic director of the house Jean Patou in 1959. He then joined the brand Chloé in 1963 and remained there until 1983, while collaborating with the Italian house Fendi from 1965.
In 1983, the fashion house Chanel was fading since the death of Coco Chanel and was close to closure. Karl Lagerfeld then decided to carry on the designer’s spirit by becoming the brand’s creative director. Virginie Viard would later replace the designer after his death, in 2019, until June 2023.
He completely revolutionized the house and turned the models he hired into true stars, like Inès de la Fressange and Vanessa Paradis. In 1984, Lagerfeld created his own fashion house. In 1991, Chloé called on him again to restore its brand during a steep decline.
In 2004, H&M asked the designer to collaborate with the retailer to launch an affordable collection. The success was resounding: the clothes sold out in just minutes.
Karl continued to innovate, whether by acting in Francis Veber’s "La doublure" in 2006, lending his voice to a villain in Totally Spies, or creating K by Karl in 2007, a more accessible line for men and women.
In 2008, he partnered with Coty to launch a fragrance line. He also appeared in a road safety advertisement encouraging the use of reflective vests.
In 2010, he was made Commander of the Legion of Honor by Nicolas Sarkozy. In 2011, he designed the new jersey for the France national football team. He also became the face of a Volkswagen ad campaign.
Around the same time, he took in the little cat of Baptiste Giabiconi, Choupette, who became a true source of inspiration for the designer. Choupette also served as the face of several brands like Opel and Shu Uemura and even has a Twitter account followed by thousands of fans.
A photography enthusiast, Karl opened the Lagerfeld Gallery in 1998, where he published many photography books. In 2016, he exhibited his work at the Pinacothèque de Paris and was also photographed repeatedly in advertising campaigns for Chanel.
The Shadows Around Karl Lagerfeld
However, Karl Lagerfeld’s career was not without controversy. He was known for his frank and often provocative statements. He made remarks deemed insensitive, notably about the weight of models and sociopolitical issues. Several times he was criticized for comments about plus-size women, saying that “nobody wants to see fat women on the catwalks.”
His use of fur in his designs drew criticism from animal rights advocates. Karl Lagerfeld often downplayed ethical concerns about fur, asserting that hunting animals for fur is an ancient tradition to be preserved.
He was also accused several times of plagiarism. Some designers claimed that his creations for Chanel and Fendi bore too close a resemblance to the works of other creators. Additionally, Karl had a reputation for being a difficult and demanding man at work. Several people, models or close associates who worked with him described a stressful work environment and an often merciless attitude.
Karl Lagerfeld significantly contributed to the fashion industry. But he was criticized for not doing enough to promote diversity. His shows and advertisements were often criticized for their lack of representation of models of different ethnicities or body types.
The Series Becoming Karl Lagerfeld
Directed by Isaure Pisani-Ferry and Jennifer Have, Becoming Karl Lagerfeld promises to reveal the many facets of the designer. Daniel Brühl portrays Karl Lagerfeld, while Alex Lutz plays Pierre Bergé. The series is set starting in 1972. It’s a pivotal period when Lagerfeld aspired to supplant Yves Saint-Laurent as the world’s most influential couturier.
Filming took place in France, Monaco, and Italy. It explores lesser-known aspects of Lagerfeld’s life. For example, did you know Lagerfeld was a big fan of pop culture? He owned a huge vinyl collection and loved listening to rock music from the ’70s and ’80s.
A Promising Cast
Alongside Daniel Brühl, the cast includes Théodore Pellerin as Jacques de Bascher, Arnaud Valois as Yves Saint-Laurent, and Jeanne Damas as Paloma Picasso. This talented cast promises to bring to life the complex and emblematic figures in Lagerfeld’s story. Notably, Agnès Jaoui will portray Gaby Aghion, the founder of Chloé who discovered Karl, and Belgian singer Claire Laffut will play Loulou de la Falaise, muse of Saint Laurent and friend of Karl.
Juicy Anecdotes
Karl Lagerfeld was a multifaceted character, and some anecdotes reveal the man behind the creator. For example, did you know he had a special relationship with his cat Choupette? Choupette, entrusted to him by Baptiste Giabiconi, became a true icon, with her own advertising contracts and a personal fortune. Karl treated her like a queen, and she even traveled by private jet.
Another interesting fact is his passion for books. Karl owned an immense personal library, with more than 300,000 books. He often said that if he hadn’t been a designer, he would have liked to be a bookseller.
A Trailer That Makes You Want More
The trailer for Becoming Karl Lagerfeld begins with a slap and the line “Nobody Wants Me To Succeed,” immediately setting a dramatic tone. Accompanied by Blondie’s Heart of Glass, it offers a glimpse of Karl’s tumultuous relationships and outsized ambitions. The scenes then flash by, showing difficult relations with Jacques de Bascher, the rivalry with Yves Saint-Laurent, and the ambition to become the most adored couturier in the world.
Video unavailableAfter a world premiere of the first two episodes at the Canneséries festival this past April 7, the six episodes of the series will be available on Disney+ on June 7, 2024.
Becoming Karl Lagerfeld offers a fascinating dive into the world of one of the most influential fashion creators of the 20th century. Don’t miss this opportunity to discover the life behind the persona. Explore the creative genius who marked our era.