Manish Vaid: insights from a designer who revives majestic India

‘Manish Vaid, finale.’

Credits: Manish Vaid.

In this exclusive interview with Ecostylia, Manish Vaid, a designer of Indian origin and mechanical engineer turned couturier, shares a fascinating journey where tradition and modernity intersect. From his immersion in the fashion scene in Los Angeles to the runways of Paris Fashion Week, Vaid reveals his influences, his pursuit of sustainability, and his vision of a timeless, elegant style. Pierre-Antoine Tsady, who was in the front row at his latest Paris show, met him. He discussed with him the tensions between authenticity and innovation in contemporary fashion, while offering valuable advice to readers eager for refinement. An interview that invites discovering a designer in search of a universal aesthetic, blending cultural heritage with the modern demands of design.

Interview

Pierre-Antoine Tsady: What motivated you to enter the world of fashion? Was there a pivotal event or a particular encounter that sparked this passion?

Manish Vaid: I have a background in mechanical engineering, but even during my studies I was drawn to the fashion field. I attended Fashion Weeks in my city, organized shows and even choreographed them. When I moved to Miami in 2012, I started a clothing import business, but it was my move to Los Angeles in 2014 that truly inspired me to start designing. The fashion scene in that city was simply magical.

‘In an ethereal blue dress inspired by Mediterranean waters, Manish Vaid plays with movement and light. The fluid silhouette and delicate embroidery highlight the very essence of resort elegance, perfect for luxurious getaways. Credits: Manish Vaid.’
‘In an ethereal blue dress inspired by Mediterranean waters, Manish Vaid plays with movement and light. The fluid silhouette and delicate embroidery highlight the very essence of resort elegance, perfect for luxurious getaways. Credits: Manish Vaid.’

P.-A. T.: Which designers or personalities have influenced your vision of fashion? Are there figures from Eastern design or culture who have particularly marked your path?

M. V.: I don’t really follow designers on social media, because I think if you see something you end up following the same path and lose creativity. But I really appreciate Roberto Cavalli’s resort collections. The choice of fabrics, the color patterns, the style; I think their design team does an excellent job.

P.-A. T.: You are known for your unique sense of style. What elegance advice would you give our readers, especially those looking to combine tradition and modernity?

M. V.: Being originally from India, I’ve seen designer collections heavily influenced by tradition and culture. Since my activities would take place internationally and not in India, I made sure my collections were designed to appeal to international buyers, without being defined as Indian ethnic collections.

‘A true homage to Indian jewels, this headdress adorned with pearls and gemstones transports the viewer to a fairytale world. With this creation, Manish Vaid reminds us that fashion is also an ode to sacred traditions. Credits: Manish Vaid.’
‘A true homage to Indian jewels, this headdress adorned with pearls and gemstones transports the viewer to a fairytale world. With this creation, Manish Vaid reminds us that fashion is also an ode to sacred traditions. Credits: Manish Vaid.’

Today, my collections are available in boutiques in Santorini, Mykonos, Marbella, Gibraltar, Miami, Los Angeles and in beach destinations in Central and South America. I think I’ve found the right balance between tradition and modernity, and international buyers have appreciated this uniqueness.

P.-A. T.: What aspects of contemporary fashion displease you or seem out of sync with the essence of elegance?

M. V.: I wouldn’t say they are out of sync, because price sensitivity is the dominant factor in today’s world, far more than style. I often wonder what it must have been like in the 1950s and 60s, when everyone dressed so elegantly every day, and when exactly we made that transition. Despite this change, fashion has evolved and there is a large population to satisfy with a growing number of social events, awards, festivals and other occasions.

P.-A. T.: What practices or approaches in fashion do you advocate today, whether in terms of design, production, or consumption?

M. V.: As the whole world moves toward sustainability, that’s the path to follow. Fashion cannot emerge at the expense of the environment. For my collections, I avoid using synthetic materials and animal fur. At the same time, the use of technology must be implemented to improve efficiency and outcomes. Working conditions must improve. To reach low price targets, it’s often the labor that suffers, working in difficult conditions for long hours.

‘Manish Vaid revisits oriental chic with this intricately embroidered jacket that tells the richness of traditions. This piece embodies the perfect balance of heritage and modernity, a wardrobe must-have for the bold woman. Credits: Manish Vaid.’
‘Manish Vaid revisits oriental chic with this intricately embroidered jacket that tells the richness of traditions. This piece embodies the perfect balance of heritage and modernity, a wardrobe must-have for the bold woman. Credits: Manish Vaid.’

P.-A. T.: In your opinion, what defines style and how can one cultivate it in daily life?

M. V.: Style is absolutely subjective. The way you comfortably wear your choices will lead others to follow your style. We use a small palette of colors on a daily basis, similar styles and cuts, but how you combine those few resources to stand out defines each new style. It’s very imaginative and fun.

P.-A. T.: Are there current trends you find superficial or ephemeral? What advice would you give fashion enthusiasts to avoid falling into those traps?

‘Blending modernity and opulence, this gown with iridescent sheens evokes a dreamlike world. The sparkling details and bold cut embody Vaid’s vision of fashion that illuminates and enchants. Credits: Manish Vaid.’
‘Blending modernity and opulence, this gown with iridescent sheens evokes a dreamlike world. The sparkling details and bold cut embody Vaid’s vision of fashion that illuminates and enchants. Credits: Manish Vaid.’

M. V.: People dressing casually at events where formal attire would be more appropriate is a rather unpleasant trend that has been accepted. Also, putting yourself too much in the spotlight to attract attention may not be the best approach. There’s a fine line between being tacky and being elegant. Anyone involved in fashion should think carefully about their style.

P.-A. T.: What do you consider essential items a woman and a man should have in their wardrobe for a timeless and elegant style?

M. V.: A good collection of blazers and coats for men, and short jackets for women, is absolutely essential.

P.-A. T.: After several years in the industry, what is your view on the evolution of fashion, particularly in Asia? Are there practices or approaches you would like to see more widely adopted in global fashion?

M. V.: Over the past 20 years, I’ve lived in the Caribbean and the United States and have mainly been exposed to Western fashion. But I have certainly seen a rise of Asian designers participating in Fashion Weeks in the U.S. and Europe, and that style is starting to win over the world.

‘These creations by Manish Vaid combine seduction and sophistication, with embellished bikinis, silky capes, and daring silhouettes. Each piece reinvents femininity with elegance and power, celebrating luxury and the avant-garde. Credits: Manish Vaid.’
‘These creations by Manish Vaid combine seduction and sophistication, with embellished bikinis, silky capes, and daring silhouettes. Each piece reinvents femininity with elegance and power, celebrating luxury and the avant-garde. Credits: Manish Vaid.’

Even designers in Asia have understood that it can be difficult to promote ethnic collections to an international audience, and have therefore rethought their collections to suit Western tastes while retaining a touch of cultural heritage.

It is certain that Asian fashion should broaden its horizons and spread globally to diversify styles, instead of remaining confined to classic choices.

P.-A. T.: How has the rapid evolution of technology influenced your creative process? Do you think technological innovations bring a new dimension to fashion or do they risk denaturing its essence?

M. V.: I’m still old school and I draw all my collections by hand. I tried using AI, but I find it more satisfying when the creative part remains organic. The USP of my collections relies on hand beading work directly on the garments, which limits the involvement of technology.

P.-A. T.: You have presented your collections at many international shows. What was the most striking reception of your work, and how do different cultures react to your creations?

M. V.: Every Fashion Week has been exciting, and I still remember the reaction from my first participation at Miami Swim Week in 2018. I walked to cheers and applause that lasted a long time. I knew I had my place on those runways. FashionTV broadcast my show afterward, and after a few months there were over 15 million views. I said to myself… wow.

‘With a confident final step, these looks capture the spirit of a bold, elegant, and free France. Manish Vaid pays a vibrant tribute to Paris 2024 with these memorable outfits. Credits: Manish Vaid.’
‘With a confident final step, these looks capture the spirit of a bold, elegant, and free France. Manish Vaid pays a vibrant tribute to Paris 2024 with these memorable outfits. Credits: Manish Vaid.’

But my last participation at Paris Fashion Week surpassed all the others. I closed the show in a cathedral near Alésia. It was a different atmosphere with resort collections, a surprise for those who expected contemporaries and evening gowns. My final look was a long cape in French colors with an Olympic theme, in tribute to the city of Paris for hosting such incredible games. The audience loved the theme and felt emotionally connected, recalling that grand sporting event that brought the world together in the City of Love.

I’ll never forget how everyone in the room stood and waited for the designer to enter the runway. It was an incredible feeling to walk amid the applause and cheers. It was six months of hard work that I had brought to the runway, and I was relieved by the response received. Before the euphoria was even over, I was already planning my next collections in that auditorium.

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This article was written by Pierre-Antoine Tsady.